“We’ve got a blank piece of paper”: Morag Garden, CEO the English Whisky Guild, makes the case for English whisky.
6 minutes read
Introduction by: Peter Marshall
A growing membership, soaring production, and a Geographical Indication out for consultation. The English Whisky Guild might still be young, but it’s hitting its stride. CEO Morag Garden talks Kristiane Sherry through the current state of play, and makes the case for English whisky to gain greater prominence in global travel retail.
It was a fittingly sunny day on England’s south coast when the news broke on 19 February. English whisky makers, retailers, drinkers and suppliers all raised a glass in celebration as the English Whisky Guild (EWG) announced that its long-awaited Geographical Indication (GI) for the category had reached consultation stage. The application for the definition, recognition and legal protection had been lodged three years previously, but the work had been over four years in the making. For Morag Garden, CEO of the Guild, it was a major milestone for the industry.
She joined the Guild as CEO in April 2023, previously having held environmental and sustainability roles, within water and most notably at the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA). Now she brings her lobbying and international trade experience to England’s fledgling yet wildly ambitious whisky category.
“Our vision is for English whisky to be recognised globally,” we speak over Zoom a couple of weeks after the GI had reached this latest stage. But that piece is just one part of her multifaceted role. She works with 26 member producers – plus associates – with over 50 distilleries now producing across the country. She supports them on day-to-day business growth, sharing resources and best practice, encouraging collaboration. She’s also a vocal advocate when it comes to fostering a productive business environment. The Department for Business and Trade, Visit England and other government bodies are on speed dial. And then there’s establishing international links for the category, too.
The EWG was only established in 2022 with 15 founding members, and she is its first CEO. “We’re building the Guild from the ground up,” she says. “We all work together and see the strength of the whole. It’s greater than the sum of its parts.”
Momentum seems to be with English makers. While we’re still waiting for 2024 figures – Garden expects to publish a detailed report in the summer – it appears, anecdotally at least, like the category is proving to be resilient. Over 30 new distilleries have opened their doors in the last two years. The volume of spirit produced is expected to have grown by 189% from 2019-2024. EWG figures suggest that the industry’s maturing stocks are worth £1 billion by now. But the shape of the wider spirits market has fundamentally changed since those forecasts were given. Does she think that sales have kept pace with the amount of whisky being produced?
“All our members are kind of sitting in that premium or above level. So yeah, I would say so,” she says. While she won’t be drawn on specifics (pointing again to the report set for summer release), she is optimistic. English whisky is currently being exported to 30 markets. “It’s continuing to experience that period of growth and development.”
She thinks that a lot of the current headwinds facing English whisky are shared not just by those across UK spirits, but the industry more broadly. Reduced consumer spend, global instability, tariffs, increased tax and duties… there’s a lot for most businesses to juggle. “We kind of see ourselves as being, you know, quite resilient and growing against those.”
It’s interesting to note that English whisky is tiny. While EWG data expects there to be around 50,000 maturing casks, Scotland is sitting on over 20 million. That scale north of the border isn’t necessarily a good thing (reports of a pooling whisky loch in Scotland as demand slips have prompted concern), but it does show how England is punching above its weight on the international stage. After all, as Garden notes with a smile, English whisky gained the World’s Best Single Malt Whisky award twice in the past three years.
On the international stage, she namechecks France and other parts of the EU, the USA, Canada, Japan, Australia and Taiwan as markets where English whisky brands are finding success. There are perhaps obvious tourism traffic links here, as well as a broader cultural interest in whisky. This export surge also adds urgency to the bid for GI status.
The consultation period allows interested parties to feed in comments and also opposition. There will then be a collaborative but legal process on understanding those issues and what to do with them. It’s unlikely to be swift or straightforward. But Garden is optimistic. “Hopefully, in late summer, the English GI will be launched, and we’ll be joining the other three UK nations with whisky GIs.”
Perhaps ironically, the biggest opposition so far has been from the Scotch Whisky Association. As it stands, the proposed definition says that English whisky is distilled in England at one distillery from UK cereal grain and English water. It must be distilled to less than 94.8% ABV, with an aroma and taste “derived from the materials used”. It must be aged in England in wooden casks (not limited to oak) of up to 700 litres for at least three years. And it must be bottled at a minimum of 40% ABV. There are sub-categories within this for malt, grain, single and blended whiskies. It’s the single malt definition that’s proved most contentious.
The GI states that English single malt needs only to be distilled at one distillery. The SWA contends that – in line with their own GI – it should be mashed, fermented and distilled at a single site. In a statement, the body said it would be “very damaging for the reputation of single malt whisky from the UK, and by extension Single Malt Scotch Whisky, if English Whiskies were allowed to describe spirit as ‘Single Malt’ despite being produced in a different manner to the established process and long-standing traditions of the Scotch Whisky industry.” It’s a statement that has been made loudly across the whisky industry.
The global whisky industry itself seems broadly and evenly divided, although there is strong feeling on both sides. There is an argument that consumers could be confused if there are different definitions of ‘single malt’ for whiskies made within the UK. But this would have been the case, too, in 2023, when Welsh whisky producers were granted their GI. This states something very similar to the English file. But when you consider that many whisky drinkers can’t recall the definition of ‘single malt’ anyway, does it even matter?
Yes – and no. There is a need for transparency here. But that could be achieved in a similar way to how the Japan Spirits and Liqueur Makers Association has moved forward. There is now the labelling term ‘Japanese Whisky’ where, in brief, the spirit is entirely made in Japan. Some retailers are choosing to use ‘Whiskies from Japan’ or ‘world blends’ to differentiate the spirits that are a blend of Japanese whisky and whiskies made elsewhere. This is, of course, voluntary and not enshrined in law. But it does show that other solutions are possible. Whisky innovation should be encouraged, not stifled – and there must be a way for all whisky-making approaches to be accommodated in a transparent way. Let’s not lose sight of what’s most important – that we all get to enjoy delicious whisky!
Garden, at least to me, seems relatively sanguine amid all the noise. “This is what the consultation is for,” she states. “It’s all about our common standards, what we see as our heritage and tradition, and making sure that it protects that authenticity and quality. But under that kind of UK government process, this consultation allows people to feed into it.”
She points to the requirements for UK grain and how that will support British farmers, and the other more creative elements, like the flexibility to use wood other than oak for maturation. “I suppose we had hoped that it’d be more of a celebration of all that’s encompassed in it, rather than, you know, being focused around quite a small point.”
If anything, the interest in the GI shows just how far English whisky has come. People care. There’s curiosity and interest – and travel retailers have an opportunity to tap into it. From the quality piece to the links to trusted British manufacturing, as well as the inherent innovation shown in the GI, there are many reasons to stock English, she says. “We’re modern, we’re innovative, we’re growing, but we also have that history and heritage,” she says. Plus, there’s strong provenance and a sense of place. Just consider the likes of The Lakes Distillery, The Cotswolds Distillery, Spirit of Yorkshire, White Peak and others that literally showcase their locations. “We’re seeing that strong consumer demand. So we’re going to leverage that as much as possible with retailers and global travel.”
There’s a lot happening in the world of English whisky, but Garden seems to be an accomplished juggler. “It’s very exciting,” she states. “It feels sometimes like you’ve got a blank piece of paper.” There’s so much potential, and so much yet to come. “It’s challenging as well because, you know, there’s only one of me. But it’s all good, I think.”
