BlogFounder's ChoiceSpirits & Wines

Introduction by: Peter Marshall

Innovation, tradition and hard-fought recognition – American single malt has already been on a long journey, despite its relatively short existence. And whiskey drinkers the world over are fascinated. Kristiane Sherry makes the case for travel retailers to take a deeper dive into the category in another first for TRunblocked.com.

American single malt makers received an early Christmas present in December. After a decade or so of campaigning, the country’s single malt makers got what they’d been crying out so loudly for: Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) ratification for the fledgling whiskey category.

This isn’t just a piece of paper. It legally defines ‘American single malt’ as an official style of whiskey produced in the US, just like bourbon or rye. It also gives it kudos on the international stage. American single malt can now be taken just as seriously as malts made in any other country. And let’s not forget the consumer. While most whiskey drinkers don’t care much for the legalities behind their bottle, the connotations are that they’re enjoying something ‘serious’. And that’s not to be overlooked. 

Steve Hawley, president of the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission, described the TTB ruling as a “landmark” at the time. “It has been over 52 years since a new type of whiskey was added to our federal regulations,”  stressing the significance of the move.

“We applaud TTB for formalising the category which will signal to the world that not only do we believe in and support our own distilleries, but we also recognise that American Single Malt Whiskey is unique and deserves to be defined and protected as other American whiskey categories are.”

So what is the definition – and does it differ from the ‘rules’ for single malts made in other parts of the world? For American single malts, the whiskey must be made from 100% malted barley, distilled entirely at one distillery, and mashed, distilled and matured within the US. The maximum distillation strength is 80% ABV/160 proof, and it must be matured in oak casks no bigger than 700 litres. The minimum bottling strength is 40% ABV/80 proof. Caramel colouring can be used, as long as it’s stated on the label.

What’s different? The main point – and one of contention – is that there’s no specified minimum age. Whiskies sold in the EU and UK must be aged for a minimum of three years, regardless of style. And single malt Scotch, for example, must be matured for at least three years anyway. Other parts of the world have a two-year minimum (Australia as an example). While some domestically and internationally have criticised this, the US has a long history of releasing much younger spirits as whiskeys. Consumers there will be used to it. And, just like for bourbons and ryes, ‘straight’ can be used as a labelling term to denote a two-year minimum ageing period.

Diageo-owned Bulleit Frontier Whiskey was a new entrant to make a splash in a post-TTB ratification world. Launched in February, the single malt is a new permanent addition to the line-up, made at Diageo’s state-of-art distillery in Shelbyville, Kentucky. It’s the first carbon-neutral site in the drink giant’s portfolio. American single malt and sustainability? It’s a whiskey of the zeitgeist.

“With a 100% malted barley mash bill, and a striking green bottle created from post-consumer recycled glass, this exceptional whiskey covers a lot of new ground for the brand,” said Jesse Damashek, senior vice president of whiskies and liqueurs at Diageo. “I believe we’ve succeeded in crafting a distinctive American Single Malt that whiskey lovers across the country will savour and enjoy.”

One of the distilleries to celebrate the ratification most loudly was Seattle’s Westland. The Rémy Cointreau-owned maker had been producing single malt since its founding in 2010, and it was vociferous during the lobbying phase.

“Westland was founded on the conviction that American Single Malt Whiskey could and should stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest whiskeys in the world,” said Jason Moore, Westland’s managing director, as the category was ratified. “For more than a decade we have been at the forefront of this new category diligently working to establish it on the global stage.”

As Westland shows, America’s whiskey-makers have been producing single malt for some time. While the category in official terms is new, distilleries big and small had been experimenting. One of the most prominent in GTR was Brown-Forman, which released its first 100% malted barley whiskey in late 2022: Jack Daniel’s Twice Barreled Special Release American Single Malt Finished in Oloroso Sherry Casks. Passengers could pick it up in duty free stores, as well as in the US.

Just like conventional Jack Daniel’s Tennessee whiskey releases, it had been charcoal-mellowed before reaching the casks. It had been aged for a total of six years: the first four in new charred oak, and the final two of that finishing period in Oloroso.

Master Distiller, Chris Fletcher

With the formal recognition coming so recently, it’s difficult to find reliable growth figures for American single malt as a standalone category. While IWSR data shows that the wider American whiskey sector dipped by 1% in 2023, the US$100–plus segment climbed 17% from 2019-2023 (CAGR). As premium products, many American single malts fall into this bracket, which is proving the most resilient. Many in the industry expect momentum from the ratification to continue carrying this forward.

What, then, could ruin the party? The greatest threat to the category’s development is that ‘t’ word: tariffs. Any attempt from the US administration to curtail whisky imports from the UK or EU is likely to be hit by reciprocal measures – which would be especially damaging to American single malt as it’s only just finding its feet on the international stage. And when the category faces such stiff competition from malts made in Scotland, Japan, Australia and India, the last thing Brand American Single Malt needs is price hikes that would be felt by the consumer.

That said, American single malt represents a huge opportunity for retailers. Here are five of the most delicious and fascinating to explore now.

 Five American single malts to consider:

1. St. George Spirits Baller Single Malt

A fascinating release from the distillation mavericks in Alameda, California. This single malt was initially aged in both ex-bourbon and ex-French wine casks, before a finishing period in barrels that previously held its own umeshu, a Japanese-style plum liqueur. Bold, round and profoundly fruity, this illustrates just how inventive single malt makers can get

2. Westward Single Malt Whiskey

The flagship release from the Portland-based Westward Whiskey sees the beer-obsessed team craft an IPA from locally grown barley. Then they double-pot distill it! Bursting with fresh orchard fruit notes along with a rich grain quality, it demonstrates the local links between brewing and distilling.

3. Westland Peated Whiskey

Yes, America makes peated whisky too! Seattle’s Westland was an early pioneer in the style, essentially inventing its own unusual maltings, as the beer maltsters distilleries often sourced from simply didn’t have the set-up. There’s a zesty citrus quality to this, alongside the smoked nuts and iodine-like elements.

4. Balcones Texas Single Malt

The Waco-based distillery – now Diageo-owned – first produced single malt back in 2011. It offers a real sense of place, being predominantly ‘yard-aged’ out in the Texas heat. It takes its cues from Scotland, with the barley being shipped over across the Atlantic. The result is silken and aromatic, with stone fruits combining with toast and even incense.

5. Cedar Ridge The Quintessential

A much-loved release from smaller distillery Cedar Ridge which has won both awards and acclaim around the world. The barrel make-up includes its own ex-wine casks, offering an unusual taste of Iowa all in one. It’s beautifully complex, with florals, caramel, dried fruits and even herbaceous notes coming through.

 

Peter Marshall

Founder: trunblocked.com/Marshall Arts
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