Leading From the Front: Markus Lampe on Coeur de Lion’s Global Expansion
6 minutes read
Introduction by: Peter Marshall
For Coeur de Lion CEO Markus Lampe, leadership is about proximity – to people, to product, and to the pulse of the market. That hands-on approach, combined with German craftsmanship and curated experiences, is driving Coeur de Lion’s global expansion and redefining jewellery in travel retail.
In conversation with TRunblocked.com’s Colleen Morgan, Markus reflects on the philosophy behind the brand’s momentum, the role of craftsmanship in a changing category, and the opportunities ahead as Coeur de Lion strengthens its presence across airports, airlines and cruise lines worldwide.
Colleen Morgan (CM): Before we talk about Coeur de Lion’s journey in travel retail, tell us a bit about your own story – and the hands-on leadership style you bring to the brand.
Markus Lampe (ML): I’ve always been passionate about brands that unite artistry and business – where creativity and strategy work together to build something lasting. My career at Swarovski and later as global CEO of Baccarat taught me that building an international brand is never simply about expansion; it’s about protecting the soul of what makes it unique.
Eight years ago, I founded Aeternum Holding in Germany, focused on helping European jewellery brands grow internationally. We acquired and developed eight brands, always in partnership with their founders. My background in strategic management helps me think long-term, but true leadership happens through conversation, collaboration and staying close to the people who shape a company’s culture.
At Coeur de Lion, I lead by proximity – to the product, to our teams, and to our markets. I spend a great deal of time with design, production, marketing and sales in Stuttgart, as well as with our international partners. A CEO should feel the pulse of the market directly – data is crucial, but human connection is what gives a brand its rhythm.
I believe leadership is a shared journey. When you foster trust and transparency, people respond with creativity and commitment. At Coeur de Lion and across Aeternum Holding, that philosophy keeps us dynamic and shapes the foundation of our success.
CM: Coeur de Lion has built a strong reputation for timeless design and craftsmanship. How does that ‘Made In Germany’ DNA define the brand, and why does it resonate with travellers?
ML: ‘Made in Germany’ is the cornerstone of our identity. Every piece is handmade in our Stuttgart atelier, where precision and creativity come together. Travellers today look for authenticity and meaning. When they see our craftsmanship, our colour harmonies and our distinctive geometric designs, they recognise something real – German precision with a human touch.
Coeur de Lion is not mass-produced luxury; it’s jewellery with soul. That message is especially powerful in travel retail, where shoppers want pieces connected to memory, experience and emotion.
CM: What has changed since Coeur de Lion joined Aeternum Holding in 2020, and how is the jewellery category evolving?
ML: Joining Aeternum Holding was a turning point. It gave the brand the structure and strategic support to scale globally while staying true to its design DNA. Since then, Coeur de Lion has expanded internationally, strengthened partnerships and modernized.
We’ve refreshed collections, evolved brand identity and deepened commitment to innovation and responsible design. This isn’t change for its own sake – it’s evolution with purpose.
In travel retail, that transformation appears in stronger storytelling, clearer visibility and curated experiences rather than just products on shelves.
The jewellery category itself is shifting quickly. Consumers want authenticity, transparency and meaning; they want to know who made their jewellery and how it was created. Coeur de Lion has always embraced local production and ethical craftsmanship, so the market is now aligning with values that have long defined us.
CM: How significant is travel retail within your growth strategy – and where are you focusing right now?
ML: Travel retail is an essential pillar of our global expansion. It connects us with an international audience that values authenticity and discovery, so for a brand like Coeur de Lion, that’s incredibly powerful.
We’re growing across airports, airlines and cruise lines, particularly in Europe, the Americas and Asia Pacific. Cruise retail is especially strong for us because guests are already in a mindset of exploration and emotional connection – and many tell us their Coeur de Lion piece becomes the memento of their trip.
We’ve built tailored assortments for cruise operators, invested in bespoke displays and strengthened relationships with key airport and cruise partners, underlining our belief that travel retail must be more than placing products: it must be about designing experiences.
Travel retail isn’t just a channel; it’s a stage where we can express our brand at its most emotional and engaging.
CM: What makes your cruise retail approach stand out?
ML: Cruise retail is uniquely intimate. Guests are relaxed and open to discovery. It’s not about fast transactions; it’s about stories, connections, and moments that linger. That’s precisely where Coeur de Lion shines. Our success comes from curating assortments that suit each ship and its passengers, supported by data, partner feedback and our own visits on board.
Personalisation is central to our strategy, and we invest heavily in training and engagement, conducting workshops with staff and speaking directly with travellers. This constant dialogue helps us fine-tune collections so they resonate deeply.
We’ve also updated our visual merchandising to reflect the brand’s evolution, ensuring every touchpoint – from product to presentation – feels inviting and aligned with our vibrant design DNA.
In cruise retail, as in all our channels, it’s the combination of craftsmanship, creativity, personal attention, and experience that allows us to stand out, to connect with travellers.
CM: You oversee several brands. How do they fit into your wider travel retail vision?
ML: Aeternum Holding is building a portfolio of complementary jewellery brands, each with its own identity but united by design excellence and responsible growth.
Coeur de Lion sets the tone for quality and innovation. QUDO, with its interchangeable concept, is performing extremely well in cruise retail, with listings on AIDA and with Effy on Carnival Cruises while Sif Jakobs, with its Scandinavian aesthetic, is developing nicely with Viking Cruises and through trunk shows with Starboard.
Together, these brands allow us to serve diverse consumer segments and build a house of brands that define modern European jewellery.
CM: Coeur de Lion balances elegance with accessibility. How does that appeal to travellers?
ML: That balance is one of our greatest strengths. Travel purchases are often emotional and spontaneous. Our pieces stand out visually, carry strong design DNA and sit at a price point that encourages impulse buying, without compromising quality or longevity.
That combination resonates deeply with travellers.
CM: CM: What jewellery trends are you watching, and how is Coeur de Lion responding?
We’re seeing a clear shift in what customers expect from jewellery brands.
Customers want more than beauty; they want story and meaning. They’re also seeking personalisation, whether through bespoke options or playful mix-and-match styling.
Layering is another major trend. People are combining pieces in expressive, individual ways. Our versatile collections support this, offering colour, texture and combinations that let customers create their own look while staying rooted in our craftsmanship and aesthetic.
CM: Looking ahead, what are your priorities for travel retail?
ML: Our priorities are clear: build deeper partnerships, strengthen our brand visibility, and connect with our customers.
We’ve grown with key operators like Avolta, Starboard and EFFY, and we’re actively exploring new opportunities, especially in Asia Pacific.
Flexibility is essential. We continue evolving our offer to appeal to both new and loyal customers.
CM: Sustainability is central to many brand conversations. How do you approach it?
ML: For us, sustainability is a mindset, not a trend. We manufacture locally in Germany, giving us full oversight of sourcing, quality and working conditions. Our packaging is FSC-certified, and we continually refine our processes to minimise impact.
But sustainability also means creating jewellery built to last – pieces people will wear and cherish for years. That, to me, is the essence of sustainable design.
CM: If you could change three things in travel retail today, what would they be?
ML: First, greater agility, faster decision-making and simpler processes between operators and brands.
Second, more data sharing to better understand traveller behaviour and tailor assortments. Third, continued investment in experience, making travel retail a place of discovery and delight.
