When “Niche” Goes Mainstream: Fragrance du Bois on Luxury, Scale and Staying Authentic
5 minutes read
Introduction by: Peter Marshall
Niche fragrance is having a moment. But as the category expands, so too does the question of what “niche” really means. Once the preserve of connoisseurs, it is now a fast-growing segment in global travel retail, attracting new consumers, higher price points and increasing competition. For brands operating at the ultra-luxury end, the challenge is clear: how to scale without diluting the very qualities that made them desirable.
Enter Fragrance du Bois, the independent fragrance house founded in 2013 by Creative Director Jonnie Swarbrick. Built on a foundation of sustainable oud, craftsmanship and integrated sourcing, the brand sits firmly outside the traditional beauty conglomerate model. Its measured expansion into travel retail – through carefully selected partners such as The Shilla Duty Free – reflects a strategy rooted not in volume, but in presence and long-term brand equity.
Speaking to TRunblocked.com’s Contributing Editor Colleen Morgan, Global Travel Retail Manager Sophie Sponagle outlines how the brand is navigating a channel defined by visibility and scale, while remaining committed to rarity, authenticity and experience. In a market where storytelling is everywhere and “niche” risks becoming a diluted term, Fragrance du Bois is betting on something simpler: letting the product, craftsmanship and client experience speak for themselves.
Colleen Morgan (CM): Fragrance du Bois sits at the intersection of niche perfumery and ultra-luxury. In practical terms, how does travel retail fit into your broader brand-building strategy today?
Sophie Sponagle (SS): Travel retail is a strategic channel for us – not just a point of sale, but a global stage for the brand. It allows us to engage an international, affluent and highly mobile audience at a moment when they are open to discovery.
For Fragrance du Bois, it plays three roles: brand elevation, client acquisition, and storytelling at scale. Our focus is on delivering a consistent, elevated experience that reflects our craftsmanship and positioning.
CM: You’ve recently expanded into key locations such as The Shilla Duty Free Seoul Downtown Store. What makes a location “right” for Fragrance du Bois? And how selective are you willing to be?
SS: For us, the right location starts with the right partner. We work with retailers and distributors who understand how to build and sustain a luxury brand. We are highly selective by design – protecting our positioning is non-negotiable. That means choosing partners and locations that can deliver at the level our clients expect.
Our ambition is to expand globally within travel retail in a way that reflects our already strong domestic presence.
Our Sirène fragrance is listed onboard Emirates, and we are in the final stages of launching in key airports including Riyadh, Abu Dhabi, Qatar, and Larnaca, with the Caribbean and Mexico markets set to follow next quarter. Other locations are still to be revealed.
CM: Niche fragrance is no longer niche in the way it once was. As more brands enter the space – and prices continue to rise – is there a risk the category becomes overcrowded and overvalued?
SS: Niche fragrance does risk dilution as more brands enter the space and the term is used more loosely. But true luxury is self-regulating.
The market will separate brands built on genuine craftsmanship, integrated sourcing and authenticity from those driven mainly by marketing.
CM: Travel retail is built on visibility and volume, yet your brand is rooted in rarity and craftsmanship. How do you reconcile those two forces without diluting the brand?
SS: It really comes down to how you manage visibility. We focus on presence over volume, making sure every interaction reflects our craftsmanship.
While travel retail often leans into scale, we’re excited to sit alongside leading luxury houses such as Parfums de Marly, Creed, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, and Maison Crivelli – brands that share our focus on storytelling, quality, and elevated experiences. Our price point firmly places us in this high-luxury space, which naturally supports a more curated and intentional approach to distribution.
We bring the brand to life through passionate brand ambassadors and immersive product experiences rather than discounting. When it’s done well, travel retail becomes a true stage for craftsmanship, building desire and creating meaningful connections without compromising exclusivity.
CM: Fragrance du Bois places strong emphasis on ingredients and provenance, particularly oud. In a market driven by storytelling, how important is it that the product itself leads the narrative?
SS: For us, the product is always the hero. In a market driven by storytelling, authenticity starts with what’s in the bottle – its quality, origin and craftsmanship.
Ingredients like oud are not just raw materials; they carry history and culture, which naturally shape the narrative. When the product leads, the story becomes genuine.
CM: Today’s travellers are far more educated about fragrance than they were even a few years ago. How has that changed the way you present and sell the brand in travel retail?
SS: Today’s travellers are more informed than ever, thanks to social media and online content.
In travel retail, that means going beyond presentation. We focus on education and product experience, with brand ambassadors explaining ingredients, origin and craftsmanship, driving deeper engagement.
CM: How do regional tastes shape your travel retail strategy and assortment?
SS: Regional preferences play a key role in shaping our travel retail strategy and assortment. While we maintain consistency through our Global Best Sellers, we adapt to local tastes by highlighting fragrances, notes, or formats that resonate in each market.
The result is an offer that is globally recognisable, but locally relevant.
Lucius and Sirène are our top two best sellers. Lucius blends a bright citrus-spice opening with a smooth woody-amber base for a confident, versatile feel, while Sirène brings a more playful, sensual side with soft florals, fruity touches, and a musky finish. Together they really capture both ends of the Fragrance Du Bois style.
CM: Let’s consider exclusivity and discovery in travel retail. Do you see the channel as a place to protect rarity, or to expand reach and recruit new consumers?
SS: Both are possible, with careful balance.
Travel retail is a powerful recruitment channel, introducing the brand to high-value clients who may not encounter it at home. But recruitment should never come at the expense of exclusivity. Discovery must happen within a curated, elevated environment where the experience reinforces rarity.
CM: Looking ahead, what will define success for Fragrance du Bois in travel retail. And what does the channel still need to do better to support niche luxury brands? Put simply, what is your message to travel retailers?
SS: Success isn’t about doors or volume, it’s about the quality of the experience and the relationships we build.
Travel retail has the opportunity to move beyond transactions and become truly experiential, with space for brands to stand out and teams that bring them to life.
The message is simple: protect what makes the category special – and let craftsmanship, authenticity and service lead.
